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From a Chance Encounter to a Dream Realized: Love, Waves, and Moroccan Hospitality

The Genesis of a Cross-Continental Romance: A Surf Lesson in Rabat

Eleven years prior, Nina Ottevanger, hailing from the Netherlands, embarked on a Moroccan adventure with her companions. While in Rabat, their quest for surfing led them to Ilyass, a local surf instructor. A private lesson, necessitated by their late arrival, ignited an undeniable spark between Nina and Ilyass, setting the stage for an extraordinary connection that transcended continents.

Nurturing Love Across Borders: The Evolution of a Long-Distance Relationship

Despite their burgeoning affection, Nina's academic pursuits in international tourism and leisure management at a Dutch university meant a long-distance relationship was inevitable. Regular visits to Rabat during her study breaks allowed their bond to deepen. In 2016, their relationship entered a new phase when Ilyass took a management role at a surf camp on Morocco's Atlantic coast, and Nina secured a six-month internship at a nearby facility, providing them with a glimpse into cohabiting.

The Dream Takes Shape: Aspiring to a Surf Concept and a New Life

Ilyass, with years of experience at his uncle's hostel and surf school, harbored a long-standing desire to establish his own business. Nina, captivated by the prospect of a year-round outdoor lifestyle, envisioned operating a bed and breakfast. Together, they conceived a surf-centric concept, though financial constraints and a lack of experience initially hindered its realization.

Uniting Lives and Dreams: Marriage and a Seasonal Business Model

Upon Nina's graduation, she joined a travel agency in The Hague, and Ilyass relocated to the Netherlands. They solemnized their union on Kijkduin beach in 2021. However, Ilyass's aversion to cold winters prompted a change in plans. Nina left her agency job to work alongside him at a beach club and surf school in The Hague. Their agreement was to operate in the Netherlands during the summer and dedicate winters to developing their Moroccan venture.

From Surf School to Surf House: The Quest for a Permanent Base in Morocco

For three years, they successfully managed Ilyana Surfhouse, a fusion of their names, as a surf school, collaborating with local homestays for accommodation. Yet, the constant transition between two countries proved draining, impeding their ability to cultivate a stable life. The desire for a permanent base in Morocco intensified, driven by the loyalty of Ilyass's Dutch students who readily booked lessons without confirmed lodging, placing immense trust in the couple.

Breathing New Life into an Abandoned Gem: The Riad Renovation Project

In 2024, their search for a riad—a traditional Moroccan courtyard house—began. Their objective was a property near the ocean in the medina, ensuring easy access for guests carrying surfboards. They discovered a severely dilapidated riad, abandoned for two decades and lacking basic amenities like bathrooms. Despite its condition, its exquisite original features, particularly the traditional tiling, captivated them. Although priced higher than other riads, its historical integrity made it a valuable acquisition, inspiring their commitment to restoration.

A Family Affair: Collaborative Renovation and the Birth of Ilyana Surfhouse

With their savings covering 40% of the purchase and loans from family and friends securing the remaining 60%, they commenced renovations in April 2025. Initially skeptical, Nina's parents were won over by the riad's potential. Her father, experienced in similar projects, assisted in designing architectural plans and sketching every room. The couple personally oversaw the renovation, collaborating with local plumbers, electricians, and builders. The project, costing approximately €75,000 (around $86,800), was completed in five months, and Ilyana Surfhouse welcomed its first guests in October.

A Thriving Family Business: Community, Culture, and the Surf Lifestyle

Ilyana Surfhouse offers five guest rooms accommodating 16 people, with rates starting at 500 Moroccan dirhams (about $53) per night, inclusive of breakfast and dinner. Ilyass's mother prepares dinner, his sister manages breakfast and guest reception, and his brother contributes to surf lessons. The business is flourishing, and the couple anticipates repaying their loans within eight years.

Embracing a Simpler Life: The Allure of Rabat's Surf Scene

This venture has ushered in a profoundly satisfying lifestyle change. The couple now enjoys a simpler existence, spending much of their time in wetsuits and benefiting from a lower cost of living compared to the Netherlands. Sundays are dedicated to beach gatherings with friends, fostering a strong sense of community. Despite Rabat's rising costs, particularly for luxury services, the city offers an affordable daily life.

Sharing Authenticity: Rabat's Unique Charm and Future Aspirations

Their choice of Rabat was deeply personal, rooted in Ilyass's upbringing and the city's unique surf scene, which offers a more intimate experience than overcrowded spots. Their circle of friends, comprised of teachers, engineers, shop owners, and barbers, reflects the authentic Moroccan life they aim to share with their guests, rather than a mere "surfer's paradise." Nina and Ilyass, a cohesive team both personally and professionally, prioritize time for their relationship amidst their busy entrepreneurial endeavors.

Relocating to an unfamiliar country inevitably brings numerous adaptations, from linguistic nuances to social norms. However, the author did not anticipate how profoundly her perception of her own body and style would be affected by this transition. Prior to her move from New Zealand to Japan, she felt largely content with her physical appearance, having already navigated the complexities of body image that accompany early motherhood. Despite identifying as a plus-size individual, she maintained a strong sense of self-confidence and rarely concerned herself with external judgments about her looks.

After three years in Japan, the heightened visibility that comes with being an expatriate has introduced an unprecedented level of self-awareness. The author often felt under scrutiny, leading her to meticulously examine aspects of her appearance she had previously taken for granted. This new environment prompted her to question long-held beliefs about beauty and personal presentation, pushing her to conform to local standards, such as increased body hair removal and a shift in clothing choices to better align with Japanese fashion. The challenges extended to shopping, where the limited availability of clothing sizes for her build in mainstream stores led to moments of self-doubt, transforming what should be a simple act into an exercise in questioning her own physique rather than the garments themselves.

Ultimately, this journey of cultural immersion has become a profound exploration of identity. While grappling with newfound insecurities, the author has also recognized that self-presentation is not solely about meeting societal expectations but can also be influenced by routine and exposure to diverse cultural norms. Although some changes stem from insecurity, others arise from curiosity, and the precise boundary between these motivations remains blurred. Nevertheless, she expresses gratitude for how her life in Japan has encouraged her to experiment with modes of self-expression she would have previously dismissed. Embracing makeup and a more feminine aesthetic, complete with stylish accessories and an impressive shoe collection, she has been compelled to scrutinize the origins of her self-image, discerning which aspects are genuinely her own and which have been shaped by her surroundings. This often uncomfortable process has revealed that personal evolution and self-doubt are not mutually exclusive, frequently arriving in tandem.

Embracing new cultures and experiences, even when they challenge our deeply ingrained self-perceptions, can be a powerful catalyst for growth. The journey of adapting to unfamiliar beauty standards and social expectations, though initially unsettling, ultimately offers a unique opportunity to redefine personal style and identity. It teaches us resilience, encourages self-reflection, and highlights the importance of authenticity while navigating a world of diverse perspectives. This evolution not only broadens our understanding of others but also enriches our understanding of ourselves, fostering a more adaptable and confident individual.